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Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Shangri-La to Tiger Leaping Gorge

[Note: I am on the slowest internet connection in the world. More photos to follow soon]

I think I did not emphasize enough in my previous post how cool of a little town Shangri-La was. It's really small Tibetan village, with stone streets, little shops and restaurants and the occasional hostel, and two very cool monastaries - one on a little hill in town and one that we cycled to. There is also a big square where there is some sort of Tibetan dance party nightly. A little touristy, but still pretty cool. Some photos:

Monday morning I woke up in Shangri-La with no real plans, looked outside, saw that it was overcast but not raining, and decided to go do the Tiger Leaping Gorge hike. This is one of the most famous hikes in Yunnan Province, and runs through a gorge that is over a mile deep.

I left Shangri-La on the 10am bus for the little town of Qiaotou ("Chow-toe") where the hike starts. The bus was fairly nice - better than Ecuador, worse than Peru. I dozed off for a bit and woke up when the bus made a stop and then started again. Confused, I asked the guy next to me "Qiaotou?". He said something. Iasked again. He said something that seemed like yes. I yelled to the driver "Qiaotou?" He stopped. I hopped off, got my bag, and trudged back up the hill to Quiatou.

The Gorge hike is around 20 miles long. It starts around 1000 feet above the river at the west end of the Gorge. It then climbs up 3000 feet in the first 5 miles, then goes up and down and eventually descends back down to 1000 feet above the river over the last 15 miles. Top altitude is around 8500 feet. At the end of the hike, there is an optional 3 hour excursion down to the river.

Since the rainy season makes hiking tricky, my plan was to hike for as long as possible when it wasn't rainy too hard. I started around 1:00. As the weather rotated from light drizzle to steady rain but was never a downpour, I hiked until it started to get dark - about 6 hours. It was tough going, and quite slippery and wet, but a really cool hike. The mountains that surround the area are even higher than the gorge - their peaks are over 16,000 feet - and their tops poked through the clouds every so often like I was in the Lord of the Rings.

The weather scared away many travelers so I did not see very many people. But I also had a goofy wide-brimmed hat which I could tell made everyone I passed super jealous. I totally sunburned my newly exposed forehead, neck, and scalp while cycling outside Shangri-La. High-altitude sun and newly short hair do not go well together.

Most people I passed on the trail though had hired a guide with a horse. I hate horses even more than bikes so I did not. Still almost everyone I passed were also saoking wet and had mud-covered spots on their butts (like I did) from falling on one of the slick rocks. But I managed to find my way even though at times the trail was

not well marked:


crowded:

unclear:

probably not that safe:

and definitely wet:

But in the end, it was definitely worth it. The hike got progressively better, and it was awe-inspiring by the time I arrived Monday night at a little guest house that offered dinner and a place to crash for less than $4.

I woke up early and hiked the rest of the trail Tuesday morning, then trekked down to the bottom of the Gorge and climbed out on Tiger Leaping Stone in the middle of the river.

At the bottom of the river, I met a nice Chinese traveler from Guangdong province. As he was the only other person I saw on the 3 hour trip down to the river and back up, we chatted a bit and took a photo together. He took off first, I stayed a bit on the rock, then went up a few minutes later. As I was sweating and out of breath about half way back up, I ran into two guys who were headed down to the water. They mentioned that there had been a landslide in the road and that travel out of the gorge would be "challenging". That was an understatement - I will elaborate on the adventures that followed in the next post.

But the hike was exhausting, I was soaking wet for two days, but it was very cool, had great views, and was a great way to re-connect with nature after spending a month in the very urban lifestyle of Shanghai.

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